H. Moser & Cie. Reconnects With the Heritage Spirit: A Chronograph and a Three-Hander in Fumé

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The White Fumé chronograph borrows from mid-century Moser chronographs: two subdials at three and nine, small seconds on one side and a 45-minute counter on the other, with a tachymeter scale that remembers what these instruments were built for. Against the white fumé dial the logo reverts to its 1947 form, and every indication is blue. The result is a vintage chronograph with none of the vintage mushiness.

Inside is the HMC 220 automatic calibre with a chronograph module, and the case is steel rather than precious metal, which is the less obvious part of the decision.

The Espresso Fumé is the quieter provocation. The architecture looks like a pocket watch converted for the wrist, but the dial is warm and dark, edged with a white railway track, and the oversized numerals are ceramic-based Globolight rather than printed paint. The hands carry lume, the strap is raw kudu leather with white stitching, and the combination is deliberately less polite than the case suggests.

Two watches, then, doing what the Heritage collection is for: one measuring time as a tool, the other wearing its history as character. Nearly two centuries in, the argument is that a house with this much archive can afford to be playful with it.

Both are available now through H. Moser & Cie. and its retail partners.

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